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In Praise of Single Malts
Nov 04, 2001
It was a Friday evening and we rolled into that popular watering hole in Wanchai, Hong Kong, known as Joe Bananas or JBs. It was my first visit there. A cheerful crowd of young office-goers thronged the bar. Beverages from all corners of the world were there!
My straying eyes stopped at the line-up of single-malts. While my colleagues ordered beers or Pina Coladas or Long Island Teas, I settled for Laphroaig. I took it neat, like a ‘stalwart’.
During other travels, I was to discover that single malt Scotch whisky was popular among discerning drinkers—particularly golfers. “Tequila, rum and gin are not as popular here,” said the man behind the bar in a country club in Kalamazoo, Michigan. So I was shaken out of the view that single malts were the exclusive purview of those big-boned lads in kilts. The ones like at Troon, braving chilly winds of the Scottish Highlands. It now seems that—dram by dram—that warm glow cuts across the globe.
Currently, the biggest markets for Scotch are the US and Japan. There, single malts account for 10 per cent of all scotch consumption. It is the beverage of the “most upwardly mobile segments” in those societies. In India, where access to single malts is not all that easy, there are no such statistics. Single malt imbibed, one suspects, comes from overseas visitors or international travelers carting it from duty free shops.
Recently though, I spotted Glenfiddich at Thank God It’s Friday, Bangalore. With the WTO regime on us, it is a matter of time before such sights become common at neighborhood wine stores. Single malt manufacturers such as George & J G Smith and Grant & Sons, the UK, have studied the leisure habits of the massive, prosperous upper middle class of India, and are planning to woo this segment.
In duty free shops such as those in Singapore and Dubai, there are many choices of single malts. But they don’t compare with what’s available at Heathrow’s duty free. Even better are the pubs and wine stores in Scotland. In cities such as Glasgow, Aberdeen and Troon, one is likely to encounter an exquisite range of rare and unusual single malts. Many with the quaintest names—Knockando, for instance. But wherever you find them, one thing is for sure—single malts are expensive. For instance, at the Heathrow duty free, a litre bottle of 12-year-old Johnny Walker Black or Chivas Regal is for œ19.99, while Glenfiddich is for œ21.50, Glen Livet costs œ21.50, Macallan is for œ26.99 and Aberlour is at œ24.99. The prices in High Street are about 40 per cent more! Aged single malts — 14, 16 and 18 years — are more expensive.
That being so, when wheeling the trolley and picking up a bottle at the duty free, you will do well to heed the advice of experts:
Remember that all single malt whisky is stored in oak casks to mature. The longer it ages—8, 12, 16 or 25 years—the better the quality, and the higher the price. Macallan, for instance, enjoys the status of being “the finest single malt known to man”. It is aged in very old sherry casks and carries a “subtle vanilla oakiness” and a very pleasant aftertaste.
“Once out of the cask, the maturing process of whisky slows down. Bottled whisky retains its quality for years—as long as the bottle remains sealed—and particularly if kept horizontal with the liquid in contact with the cork,” say experts. Once unbottled, single malt whisky tends to lose much of its punch and flavor. That’s why connoisseurs suggest that the bottle be finished once opened! If that can’t be done, remember not to keep loosely capped bottles of other liquor around the opened bottle of single malt. Regarding the matter of adding soda, cola or even water, a single malt connoisseur stands apart with a firm “No, thanks.” While it is permissible to add ice to blended whisky, adding anything else to a single malt is “a sin too severe to be forgiven”.
Another view is that a small dash of water helps in ‘releasing’ the flavour and aroma of the whisky. What about munchies—peanuts, hors d’oeuvres, canapes—during a single malt session? Put it off. The oily or fatty coating left on the tastebuds by such indulgences is likely to ruin the single malt flavour.
To truly appreciate single malt whisky, it should be savoured in a snifter. Experience the rich and heady bouquet and its various scents. Take a small sip and roll it around on your tongue. Take your time. Close your eyes and “imagine the waves lapping the beautiful hollow by the broad bay”. Enjoy the moment and the “nectar of the gods”.
In moderation, single malts are a rich and rewarding experience—especially when you plan to celebrate a special occasion with close friends. With the right company and music and good food to follow, it can go to make an enjoyable, memorable evening. Cheers!
Malts in the making
Today, single malts are distilled from a mixture of water, yeast and peat-malted barley. Earlier, in the 12th century, alchemists distilled a mash of rye and malt grain. The result: A delightful bouquet and a tasty and heady beverage became known as “woosk’akei” or “the water of health”, in Gaelic. Over the years, this changed to “whisky”. In Ireland, it is whiskey. But the Scots prefer it without the ‘e’.
Generally, all single malt distilleries rely on their own supply of barley and “crystal clear spring” water. The amount of peat, granite and heather in the water gives each batch of Scotch its own uniqueness and character. During the malting process, peat is added to the fire, which results in the smoky flavour.
Scotland has four main areas producing single malts: the Highlands, Lowlands, Speyside and Islay-Campbeltown. Each of these areas bears its distinctive stamp on its product. The Highland malts such as Glenfiddich—which, incidentally, was first distilled on Christmas Day in 1887—the Glenlivet, Glenmorangie and such, have “a rich, flowery scent” and are “made without compromise”. They are considered to be superior to the Lowland malts, which are lighter in appearance and in flavour. The malts from the Lowlands are generally used for blended whisky. Then there are the Speyside malts—”the aristocrats of the single malts”. This region of Scotland has some of the world’s finest Scotch whiskies.
The “smokiest, heaviest, full-bodied” single malts with “the pungent, earthy aroma of blue peat smoke”—Laphroaig and Bowmore—are from the remote islands off the west coast of Scotland, from the Islay-Cambeltown region.
DAKSHIN - a gastronomical tour de Force of peninsular India
When you have out of station business, give them a meal that is something very local and 'ethnic', a honest to goodness 'an authentic South Indian meal'.
So what exactly is a good South Indian meal anyway? Is it the chitranna and bakala bath from Karnataka? Or is it those fiery hot biryanis and ghonghura chutney from Andhra? Or the coconut based dishes from the coastline stretching from Karwar to Kanya Kumari?
The city has a number of restaurants serving such food but not many serving a varied platter of South Indian cuisine - all under one roof. So, when someone suggested Dakshin, a specialty restaurant at Windsor Manor Hotel, we decided to give it a try. And what a good choice that was!
We arrived at the sprawling colonnaded hotel - carefully put together to resemble something out of a colonial period - and nervously wondered how we would get the 'real thing', the kinda thindi/oota (snack/meal, in Kannada) we had in mind, in a setting so posh. Our apprehensions were misplaced. There were a number of surprises awaiting us - luckily, all pleasant ones that made for a lively outing.
To greet us was a waiter dressed in an elegant traditional ensemble - white dhotie, a close-necked kurta, and angavastram, a longish scarf slung over the shoulder. And as we stepped in, it was like going back in time. To the great mansions of erstwhile Rajas and Nawabs of the South.
The interiors at the Dakshin bring to mind memories of grandeur and laid back, luxurious living. Paintings of turbaned aristocrats of a by-gone era adorned the walls.
Within was a bright, sparkling kuthavillaku, temple bells, brass embellishments, silken tapestries, jasmine and other floral arrangements, shiny yellow and white metal tableware and a subtle hint of a distinctly south Indian aroma about the place. Of burning agarbathi (incense sticks), karpoora (camphor) from the puja room together gently mixing with the aroma of a freshly ground filter coffee wafting in from the kitchen!
To complete the full south Indian ambience, in the air was the perennial favorite, "Krishna nee begane baro". The melody came from the far corner of the hall. There, a cachery, a classical music concert, was in session - lively, divinely inspired!
The group of musicians playing it was dressed in dhoties and jubbas. The sounds of the ghatam, flute, violin, mridangam and a vocalist filled the air with a magical resonance. Then as they turned their attention to another time-honored Carnatic melody, we stood in our tracks enthralled. Was it a Purandaradasa keerthana or something inspired from the voluminous output of Annamacharya?
The setting was right, and we were now in the mood for a good meal. South Indian cookery, as you may know, is centuries old and has evolved over time to its present form through a combination of assorted dynamic influences - tradition, culture, religion, climate, environment, taste and so forth.
To appreciate this great diversity and gain an insight into the nuances of such a complex cuisine requires special expertise - and even well trained and experienced catering professionals need to have an eye and nose for the subtle details. In their quest for perfection, it is said that chefs of leading restaurants travel far and wide, to well-known homes for treasured and spellbinding recipes.
There they watch and note how the lentils are combined and ground or what constitutes the masala - how it is blended, fried, etc., and finally how a time-honored preparation gets that extra something - to turn the mundane to something of an art. These ideas are then picked up and written up in recipe books. This fare is then standardized - for careful plating and presenting in elegant settings.
Apparently this was so on our outing. The food was served on silver thalis (plates) that had a roundly cut banana leaf spread on it and a number of mini-chamboos, (pots, such as in traditional homes in the south).
The starters were an exciting assortment of mini-dosas including one made with banana pulp. The aperitif was a choice of the standard Mysore rasam or the exquisite Muneer - the house specialty, a light green drink - sugar cane juice, coconut water with a dash of sandalwood oil and honey.
The main course - as all good southie meals go - included neyi dosa, pesara attu, poori, appam, bisbele bath, curd rice and plain white rice. The curries were keerai masial (smashed greens), ennai kathrikai (brinjal fried curry), peerkakai pal curry (ridge gourd in coconut milk), aviyal (vegetables cooked in coconut milk), sambar and rasam.
The dessert was the popular pal payasam. In between there was a range of papadam, spicy chutney powders, pickles (garlic, green chillies and vadu manga, tender mango) and curds presented in mud pots - creamy and out-of the world! The thali was a fascinating representation of the old and new, the well-known and the rare - from royal palaces to namma mane (our ancestral home).
A well-rounded experience of all that goes to make a superbly prepared South Indian meal. The thali menu changes daily - to reflect whatever is fresh and in season. Popular and zesty delicacies - both vegetarian and non-vegetarian - from the far-flung areas of peninsular India, find their way to the round banana leaf.
"And always all the regions are represented in some form!" assured a smiling Mr Loganathan, the restaurant's captain. Also available is a non-veg thali - with an equally good selection of chicken, lamb, and seafood dishes. Each of these preparations again is a notable specialty of the southern region. These non-veg items may be ordered as 'extras' to your regular thali. "A remarkable and enriching experience," thanked our guests, "and a delicious way to understand South Indian culture."
The Dakshin veg thali is yours for Rs 300 and the non-veg for Rs 350 plus tax. Pricey - but the total experience - of authentic traditional South Indian food, effervescent Carnatic music, the relaxed and old-world charm, and gracious hospitality - makes it well worth it!
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